Last month, my friend and I visited Vienna. Spoiler: we didn’t fall in love with it… let’s just say we had high expectations and were distinctly underwhelmed…
However, the absolute highlight of our trip was to leave the city (oops!) and visit a Heuriger. And not just any Heuriger – one with spectacular views over Vienna!
Freak 30°C weather in Vienna in September – check
An English woman and a Dutch woman decide to climb a mountain to drink wine from a shed – check
Equipment: Google maps and half a bottle of water – check
Yes, we’re idiots – but it was 100% worth it – let me tell you why…
First up, what’s a Heuriger?
A Heuriger is the name given to a tavern in Eastern Austria, where a local winemaker serves ‘new’ wine (from the latest harvest) under a special licence in alternate months during the growing season.
I first heard about these special wine taverns in my Vienna Marco Polo Pocket Guide which recommended a place called Sirbu. Unfortunately, it didn’t have the best reviews on Trip Advisor, so we were a bit put off – especially as it was quite a trek to get there, we didn’t want to go all that way and be disappointed. So my German-speaking Dutch friend put ‘schönsten aussicht heuriger wien’ (or something like that) into Google and found another called Wieninger am Nußberg. She made a reservation online and off we went!
Wieninger am Nußberg
There must be better ways to get to Nussdorf aka “wine mountain” (i.e. by taxi) but living in Holland for so long means that Dutch ways (like not wanting to spend money unnecessarily) are rubbing off on me! We had already bought a 3 day Vienna Card which meant that we could take the U-bahn to Heiligenstadt Bahnhof and then take a bus part of the way and then ‘just’ walk the rest.
Except that ‘the rest’ was 40 minutes uphill in 30°C heat. We certainly weren’t dressed for hiking up a flippin’ mountain and only had half a bottle of water between us. I repeat – idiots! But learn from our mistake! Either go prepared or if you’re not worried about money, take a cab!
For those who are watching the pennies: take the U-bahn to Heiligenstadt. You then need to get on bus 38A to Armbrustergasse (it’s the 5th stop)… then it’s a loooong walk uphill. I’d recommend using Google Maps on your phone from the bus stop, just to be sure you’re going the right way! Trust me, you don’t want to be walking any further than necessary! (For reference, Heiligenstadt is also marked on the map below in red.)
And, yes, it turns out that Sirbu is right next to Wieninger am Nußberg!! Hahaha! But we happened to visit on a Sunday and Sirbu is closed on Sundays anyway, so it must’ve been fate…
Sweating profusely, out of breath and dying of thirst… we were rewarded for our ridiculous journey.
Oh yes! So worth it!
I’m certain that the photos don’t do it justice, but the views were absolutely breathtaking! You’ll just have to see for yourself…
In addition to sharing a bottle of Grüner Veltliner (and 2 jugs of water – they offer free chilled tap water) we also had a glass of Sturm! It was our last day of the trip after all!
Sturm is a partially-fermented grape juice and is pretty bloody strong! (Apparently it can cause ‘digestive distress’ when drunk in volume, so I wouldn’t recommend tasting more than one glass!)
I hope this post has been helpful, as when we were planning our visit we found little to no information available online!
Please hit me up in the comments if you do visit and let me know what you think!
Wieninger am Nußberg, Eichelhofweg 125, 1190 Wien, Austria. Check their website for opening times etc and to reserve online. (Booking highly recommended – it was almost full when we visited.)
A bottle of Grüner Veltliner was €22, so slightly more than we were used to paying in Vienna… but totally worth it.
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